Magical days in Bahia Concepcion. As always. This bay, about two-thirds of the way down the Baja peninsula on the east side south of Mulege, gets pretty close to the definition of paradise. The area is ringed with several tiny bays and coves that host places to camp.
El Requeson has always been my favourite, thanks to its small triangle of sand that forms a path to the nearby island at low tide. The island is great for hiking around, and we can take the kayaks to its far side to gather firewood. In the mornings before winds pick up, the surface of the bay is like glass and you can see schools of all kinds of tropical fish in the clear waters, along with pelicans, vultures and cormorants circling above.
While some of the Bahia Concepcion beaches are already full of RVers, we were happily surprised that Requeson was virtually empty. There are six “ramadas” - two-sided and roofed palm shelters to protect from the El Norte winds - and we are able to secure a site at a prime one to set out our outdoor kitchen.
This spot always seems to be our first stop of R&R in the real Baja. Tonight will be our third night here and we’ve enjoyed two days of warmth and relaxation after a full week of long driving days.
One thing that is so interesting about the Baja is meeting fellow travellers. As mentioned in my last post, the vast majority are retirees from BC who come every winter, which brings a certain pleasant familiarity, and then some are on these incredible journeys that just happen to intersect with ours.
So we met Jim and Morgan set up in the ramada next to ours. Jim is British and runs an eco-tourism hostel in Estonia, and he met his partner Morgan last year in Berlin. She hails from Vermont, where they are now heading for Christmas with her family. They had a Kirrian bear dog, appropriately named Gonzo, that was gorgeous and very much wanted to play with Coco, but didn’t understand its own power. Coco was willing to try to play until all 100 lbs of Gonzo landed on top of her and she went yelping away. Now we have an invitation to an eco-lodge in Estonia....might be worth checking out!
In previous years staying here, we didn’t realize there were easy clams for the pickings at this location. Jim and Morgan showed us their haul and now we have a bucket full of clams for dinner! Literally, at low tide you only have to scoop your hands through the sand and you’re bound to catch a decent-sized clam or two.
Another highlight of this place is Playa Buenventura. The beach itself is nothing spectacular (compartively!) but it is the location of Mark’s restaurant. We first met Mark four years ago on our first RV venture here where he is the proprietor and chef of a crazily-decorated shack complete with singing parrots. It’s an easy kayak or drive from where we on are Requeson.
Today was their famous Taco Tuesday and the place was packed with expats and seasonal residents. Dogs lazily lounge around while a local crooner sang Sinatra songs, and we feasted on delicious coconut shrimp tacos. Words cannot do the scene justice.
Coco seems to be settling nicely back into her Baja roots. After so many months on leash and restricted access to “normal” life, she seems to be finally relaxing into the freedom of Mexico - wandering around the beach but not too far, springing through the water, cautiously introducing herself to fellow campers and their dogs. I was so impressed with her today as she swam through the shallow waters with us and scampered over large rocks on the neighbouring island. And everywhere we go, others comment on what a cute sweet little tyke is is...and she is :-)
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