Just as I was starting to feel in a rut with all the sunshine and surf (yes, I do understand how lame and ungrateful that sounds!), this region finds new ways to delight. A few highlights from recent weeks:
Waterfalls at Km 83 - we heard from “neighbours” about an oasis up an arroyo 20 minutes south of us. No signposts, nothing mentioned on any tourist maps...just look for the dirt road before the bridge at Km 83 going south to Cabo (side note: all the highways in Cabo are marked with kilometre measurements between particular points so it’s always easy to figure out how much further any given destination is or where to look for landmarks). On the scale of waterfalls, it’s not like it’s Angel Falls or anything, but it is wonderful for a few reasons. First, during the dry season here in the Baja desert, there are few sources of fresh water. No lakes or rivers or reservoirs - just the occasional instance of a spring. Second, this is a multi-tiered set of small waterfalls with anywhere from 100 metres to a km between drops that you can hike along. The first waterfall is about 25-30 feet with a healthy flow that drains immediately into the sand below, creating an underground river. We scrambled up the rocks on one side of the waterfall to the first inland plateau that extended for a kilometre. Thanks to the regular flow of fresh water, this area is an oasis of palm trees not seen in any other parts of this region without irrigation. Coco loved frolicking along the shallow meandering path of the creek. The second and third waterfalls were both shorter but with more forceful streams due to narrower crests. They would make great showers but carry sand and silt from above. It was an awesome day trip, void of tourists.
Beach massage - The other day I awoke to see one of my most favourite things on the beach - a massage table. An enterprising traveller from Israel set up a simple bed with a foam mattress and sheet. He was charging 150 pesos (about $10 Cdn) for a 30 minute back massage and was GOOD! Both Andrew and I indulged.
Mini Munchies Tuesday nights - There is a little store in Pescadero that caters to discerning gringos with fare such as fine chocolate, wines and whiskies, and organic dips and sauces. Each Tuesday night they open up their courtyard and string up some lights to invite local musicians to play. Last Tuesday we were there with about 100 other snowbirds listening to some great bands (including our neighbour Bob from Christina Lake on harmonica) and enjoying IPA on tap.
Cerritos beach - finally pulled ourselves away from our “home” beach to check out the long swath of sand just south of us. Cerritos is a bit more touristy with several resorts and villas on it, but nice because it is shallower and much easier to swim at. Coco loved chasing sticks in the small waves.
Tamale Man - most days around lunchtime we are visited by a friendly Mexican selling homemade treats from the back of his truck. He usually brings tortas (like McChicken sandwiches with salsa), empanadas (deep-fried pastries filled with a spicy chicken mixture), and our favourite, tamales. I never appreciated this traditional Mexican dish made of cornmeal steamed in corn husks before. But his tamales are yummy! Filled with seasoned chicken, served hot and fresh, one or two tamales make for a perfect lunch - that is, when we don’t go to Carnitas Machin.
Carnitas Machin - a roadside taco stand in Pescadero that serves one thing and serves it well - pork tacos. Just go there and tell the dude how many you want, and you’ll be presented with that number of soft tacos covered with a huge heap of warm marinated pulled pork. Like many small stands, they put a thin plastic sleeve over the plate and put the food on that....no dishes to clean! Then you get to add your own preferred toppings - hot sauces, guacamole, pico de gallo, and a wonderful pickled concoction I’ve never had before called escabeche (more on that next). Two tacos each are VERY filling, totalling a ridiculous $5 Cdn.
Escabeche - have you ever put carrots in your tacos? Now I do! One of the condiments at the pork taco stand is a pickled mixture of carrots, jalapenos, and onion with seasoning. OMG it is so delicious! The carrots are crunchy and spicy, and a perfect compliment to the soft chewy pulled pork. You can also buy this mixture in tins anywhere...the canned version is not as delectable as the fresh stuff from the taco stand, but as easy way to add some interesting heat to any dish. Several cans are going to come home with us!
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