Heading towards southwest Louisiana we crossed a massive bridge over a flat plain of water and patches of aquatic trees. Google informed us it was a “girder bridge” over the Atchafalaya Basin, just under 100,000 feet long. I can’t even imagine the cost of the infrastructure needed to tame this land, nor can I imagine what it would have been like to be an early settler among the swamps, bugs and bayous.
We noticed many RV parks next to the highway - ugly flat patches devoid of trees but full of large trailers and fifth wheels closely packed together. It seems hard to imagine any traveller would want to stay at such a place so we pondered if these were parks for the “homeless” - the many people who can’t afford a home but can get cheap electric and water services at these noisy sites. Sad to think about...
Our destination for the day was Lake Charles, LA, and as I read the visitor guide I was informed we needed to try out a local speciality called boudin (very French - pronounced BOO-dah). We pulled off the highway at a shop that proclaimed it was rated #1 in the state for boudin.
Not being local, it was a confusing mess trying to figure out what and how to order. I surveyed the refrigerated section and pondered buying some alligator, then settled on seasoned rabbit steaks. Finally figuring out where to find this mystical boudin, I ordered three links.
It is a pork and rice seasoned mix encased in real intestine, boiled and served warm so you can just basically squeeze the mix into your mouth. Reminded me of English white pudding, sort of the same idea made with oats, but more spicy. Quite yummy once you get over the off-putting texture...like raw ground beef.
The guide also informed me to the subtle yet distinct differences between “creole” vs “cajun”. Apparently Creole refers to the French and Spanish aristocracy that settled here and their language, culture and cuisine, while Cajuns were French Canadians displaced by the war of 1812. Probably some of you smarties already knew this, but I didn’t!
Lake Charles itself is a small resort town situated on the shores of a, you guessed it, lake. It used to be a thriving community with lumber and mining industries, but a fire in 1910 destroyed most of the downtown and work went elsewhere. Most of the buildings in downtown are vacant and boarded up, though there are fantastic mansions along the shoreline and two huge posh casino resorts.
We enjoyed a fascinating self-guided walking tour of the historic district thanks to an app created by the visitors center. We learned about distinctive Lake Charles-style columns (square and tapered vs typical round Grecian columns) while viewing homes built before the Civil War. Many featured two stories of wrap-around porches and made us wistfully want a home with a covered porch and swing (for sure I’m putting a swing up in our patio at home!). Some are in pretty rough shape and some have been faithfully restored, depending on the owners I suppose.
Along the way, we were greeted by a local fisherman selling shrimp he’d caught that morning out of the back of his truck - five dollars a pound for huge prawns! He had stopped in the driveway of a house next to one featured on our tour, and the home’s owners were quite fascinated to learn why someone from BC was all the way in Lake Charles. The home was built in 1837! “Southern hospitality” is a truism - the husband said “Oh, bring your camper here and we can chat more.”
But our afternoon plans consisted of beach. With temperatures reaching 25 degrees and blue skies, it’s idyllic to sit on the sand, blog and start a new novel. And we are the only ones here!
Tonight will be our last casino boondocking night as we have reservations at Galveston Island State Park in Texas starting tomorrow. My first order of business will be a shower! Learned a vital lesson - always enjoy a shower at a serviced campsite when you get the chance. I skipped having one at our second to last park because I figured I’d have one at Davis Bayou. Consequently their hot water pump was kaput! So it’s been a while and I can assure you it’s a good thing you are all miles from me!
Of course we have the shower in our camper but it’s pretty cramped, a real rigamarole to maneuver one’s body around and clean up the water afterwards. Works when necessary but I’m always like...”ah, I can sponge-bath ONE more day!” Or as I like to look at it, I’m being very light on the environment right now! Other than gas, our carbon footprint is more like a toe dip. And it’s all good :-)
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