There are things you don’t even notice are missing until they return. Wind is one of these things. All through New Mexico, Arizona and into the eastern Sea of Cortez side of Baja, there have been howling winds that are really a PITA (pain in the a$$), making it difficult to enjoy the gorgeous sunny weather. Rough life, I know - sorry.
These are not unexpected. This area is known for its “El Norte” winds that prevail during most of the winter. Further down the peninsula, El Nortes are why wind-sport seekers flock to the region...the world kitesurfing championships are held in Los Barriles.
Most mornings on the Gulf of Mexico we were met with dead calm. It’s such a big change...amazing what geography can do.
We got to the border at San Luis south of Yuma this morning at 9:30 AM. No line-ups! It was the first time for us going through this crossing and a little nerve-wracking not knowing how it would go. First you go through Customs where they inspect the truck and trailer, then you have to find a place to park the rig while you go to Immigration to get your tourist card.
Thankfully, the border guards at San Luis were wonderful! They were more interested in asking about the trailer’s details and cost than inspecting it. I had a friendly chat with one fellow who asked to see Coco’s proof of shots, and then he told me exactly where we could park and go for the Immigration papers. It was a tight fit, and after we got our tourists cards, it required Andrew to back out through a narrow gate. The border patrol, plus random strangers and onlookers all gathered around, offering waving hands from various vantage points - “Go, go, it’s ok”, “oh, no, stop!”, etc. They’ll probably be talking about us silly gringos for weeks!
The sudden change in atmosphere after crossing the border is always jarring. Narrow roads, fast drivers, ramshackle buildings, stray dogs wandering everywhere, stop signs and speedbumps in the middle of nowhere - some without warning that cause the trailer to lurch and spill everything not secured.
Along the highway there are also many “vados” - dips where seasonal rains run across the road on their way to the sea. Sometimes they creep up on you...you don’t even realize you need to be slowing down until you’re bouncing all over the place! On one such vado, someone actually took the time to spray-paint “Oh Shit Dip” on either side as a warning! Still the road was scarred with score marks from vehicles bottoming out.
No matter...both Andrew and I felt an amazing sense of familiarity and comfort, our second home. We really have truly chosen this place as our winter home. Our time in the US was like a vacation, and now we’ll be able to get down to our favourite spot in Todos Santos for just regular life.
When we reached San Felipe, the winds were causing sand to sweep across the highway and create dunes in some spots, almost blocking an entire lane. We pressed 45 km further south to a campsite recommended by our trusty “Traveler’s Guide to Camping Mexico’s Baja” by Mike and Terri Church - known as “The Bible” down here by RVers.
Here we are the only campers in a large sandy lot covered in pinon pine about 100 metres to the ocean. The beach is gorgeous white sand, which Coco took great glee in running around off-leash (thank heaven to be away from all those RULES!), though with the wind we couldn’t actually sit down and relax on it.
Coming this way down MX Hwy 5 vs Hwy 1 south of Tijuana should shave a day off our journey south. A lot depends on the condition of the road we’ll tackle tomorrow - a shortcut with 35 km of rough gravel. We did this route in 2015 after Hurricane Odile and we couldn’t drive faster than 2-10 km/h. Last year we didn’t even try, but have heard it’s been cleared and widened in preparation for eventual paving.
The highlight of this route is Coco’s Corner - an famous stop in the middle of the desert - where long-time proprietor 80-year old Coco sells cold Coke and beer (only the two things on the menu!), and let’s you stay overnight with purchase of a beer. The decor of his place consists of old tins, a few vehicle carcasses and a toilet “garden”, and female underwear pinned to the ceiling, all donated and signed by patrons.
When we went through in spring 2015, we ended up spending a beer-soaked evening with Coco and heard all of his “war” stories. The best of which had to be about his leg amputations. When he was young, he lost one leg in a farming accident just below the knee. Years later he developed diabetes and had to have his foot amputated. But he told the doctors “take it off at the same level as the other one, so at least then I can get around like a monkey”. And he does! He has thick leather pads on his leg stumps and motors around like a silverback gorilla. Even has extensions so he can use a quad to scoot around the property! We hope he is still doing well...he truly is a legend! And we can check to see if my underwear is still there 😉
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